Are you over-exfoliating?

Exfoliation is an important step in any skincare routine. It is a fantastic way to help you shed dead skin cells to reveal a fresh, radiant complexion and can benefit a variety of skin conditions such as acne, premature ageing and pigmentation. But with all of the chemical and physical exfoliant options that are available now in cleansers, toners and serums, you could be overdoing it without knowing and causing your skin more harm than good. So how can you tell?

RADIANT GLOW OR UNHEALTHY SHINE?

When you exfoliate, you speed up the turnover rate of skin cells to reveal newer, fresher skin beneath. When you over-exfoliate, you prematurely reveal young skin cells, leaving your skin looking unusually shiny with a tight, waxy texture. This shine is anything but healthy and underneath, your skin is often very dry and exposed which can lead to increased sensitivity to products and the sun. If your forehead is shining like a mirror, try cutting down.

IRRITATION

Red, angry and reactive skin is a classic sign of over-exfoliation. Over exfoliating can lead to a compromised skin barrier and unfortunately, quite often this can cause the exact problems we are trying to fix by exfoliating in the first place. When your natural barrier is compromised, your skin is left exposed to dirt, pollution and toxins. It can also lead to a crepe-like appearance which can exaggerate the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. If your skin is flaking and your lines become more visible, it’s a sign you might be overdoing it.

ACNE

You would assume that exfoliating would be highly beneficial for acne, but when it’s done too much, it can have a less than desired effect. When you exfoliate correctly, you clear out dead cells that may have blocked your pores, but excessive scrubbing can lead to your sebaceous glands producing more oil to compensate for the loss of hydration, which can lead to more acne.

HEALING FROM OVER EXFOLIATING

Giving your skin a break and getting the right products is essential to healing. If you are suffering the effects of over-exfoliation, you are likely suffering from transepidermal water loss (TEWL). When the skin’s barrier is compromised, it is unable to hold water. To help with healing, DMK products such as Herbal Pigment Oil and Seba-E are great options. When combined with Herb & Mineral Mist, Herbal Pigment Oil and Seba-E assist with imitating the skin’s acid mantle and restoring natural barrier function. Seba-E is designed to prevent skin dehydration and address roughness, flakiness, reactive red skin, and a loss of bounce and elasticity in the skin – all of which can result from over-exfoliation, while Herbal Pigment Oil has the added benefit of brightening skin that is suffering from pigmentation.

When the natural barrier of the skin is compromised, it is also important to ensure you are getting enough essential fatty acids. DMK’s EFA Ultra not only helps barrier function but is also a natural anti-inflammatory that can assist with boosting the immune system of the skin and body.

WHAT IS THE RIGHT AMOUNT?

To determine the frequency of exfoliation and the right product for you, we recommend you a book a consult with us. During this appointment we will conduct a thorough analysis of your skin and create a unique treatment plan for your skin. Our in-clinic treatments involve professional exfoliation that removes dead cell build-up without irritating the skin or damaging the skin’s natural moisture barrier. This is followed by our rebuilding phase, which includes our signature Enzyme Therapy, a transepidermal delivery infusion of vitamins, amino acids, proteins, essential fatty acids and finished with barrier repair therapy.

For home care, how often you exfoliate depends greatly on your skin type and condition. DMK’s Micro Peel is a great Home Prescriptive. With citric, glycolic and lactic acid, it gently removes dead cell material and debris easily and is recommended to be used one to two times per week between clinic treatments. Our signature at-home Enzyme Masque, Foamy Lift and Exoderma Peel works on the internal structure and function of the skin re-educating it to function optimally while at the same time exfoliating. A must-have for home care!

The not so sweet truth about sugar

Let's face it, we all love to indulge in a sweet treat every now and then (or all the time).

Sugar-filled goodies and drinks, as delicious as they are, can impact the body in a variety of ways, including the appearance of your skin.

Not only bad for your skin, research has found that consuming only 40 grams of sugar from a 375ml can of soft drink a day can lead to an increase of inflammatory markers, insulin resistance and weight gain.

Sugar can play a role in a variety of skin issues, including premature ageing and oil production (which can lead to more acne breakouts). But how?

SUGAR = INCREASED INFLAMMATION

Overconsumption of sugar can lead to inflammation in the body which can aggravate the skin. When you eat high Glycemic Index (GI) foods such as white sugar, soft drinks, or baked goods, it leads to a spike in your blood sugar levels at a quick rate, which in turn sends a signal to your pancreas to release insulin triggering inflammation.

This inflammation can exacerbate skin conditions such as psoriasis, acne, rosacea and eczema. Excessive intake of sugar can also lead to dehydration in the skin and contribute to dark circles under the eyes and the skin looking less bouncy.

COLLAGEN BREAKDOWN

Diets high in sugar are thought to accelerate skin ageing as high GI foods contribute to the breakdown of collagen fibres in a process known as glycation. Glycation refers to

the binding of sugar molecules to proteins, fats and amino acids. This results in the loss of skin volume, sagginess and cross-linked wrinkles. Glycation is central to skin ageing as once glycated, proteins become rigid, less functional and contribute to the production of free radicals. How?

When glycation occurs, a new substance is created called advanced glycation end products or AGEs. AGEs can contribute to the breakdown of the body's proteins, and unfortunately, this includes the ones that give us a youthful complexion, elastin and collagen (which impacts skin firmness and contributes to wrinkling). The presence of AGEs also makes your complexion more vulnerable to damage from UV light.

ARE ARTIFICIAL SWEETENERS BETTER?

Unfortunately, artificial sweeteners miss the mark, and they can have a similar effect on the body as real sugar. Sugar substitutes can temporarily elevate insulin levels, and just like the real deal, can change the composition of the gut microbiome. Artificial sweeteners have also been linked to skin disorders such as acne that are related to high insulin, so it's best to give them a miss.

HOW TO PROTECT YOUR SKIN FROM THE EFFECTS OF SUGAR

• Swap out refined grains and sugars with fibre-rich, low GI carbohydrates.

• Include plenty of healthy fats for supple skin, such as oily fish, nuts, seeds, olive oil and avocado.

• Eat plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables daily that are rich in antioxidants, phytonutrients and fibre. Berries are a great choice because of their high antioxidant content.

• Be aware of hidden sugar! Sugar is present in so many foods you may not realise. Always check the labels for sugar content.

Seasons change, but should your skincare routine?

Your skin is the first and most important barrier between your body and the outside world, and seasonal changes in the weather can have a greater impact on your skin than you might think. Skin reacts to different environments in different ways. During summer, humidity causes your skin to naturally produce more oils, commonly resulting in a better nourished and glowing complexion. The shift to autumn can be a shock to the skin’s system. As temperatures and humidity levels drop, the skin is one of the first organs to feel the effects as it becomes dryer, more fragile, irritated, flakier, and itchier. Autumn and winter are also when recurring skin conditions, like eczema, dandruff, and psoriasis rashes, can flare up. It is best to get your skin prep work done early, so a specialist DMK Skin Technician has provided some handy tips and recommendations to help you tailor your seasonal skincare transition and achieve your best autumn skin ever!

HYDRATE

Autumn provides an opportunity to recover from the summer toll on the skin left by the sun, chlorine, and saltwater. However, as the drier, cooler air arrives, your skin can lose precious moisture and you will need to switch to a heavier moisturiser. DMK recommends investing in a good lipid for the skin, to keep that important moisture barrier intact. DMK Seba-E and Herbal Pigment Oil are ideal as they re-establish the skin’s acid mantle by mimicking the natural way that the skin secretes oil.

Seba-E contains a fine blend of natural herbal oils like soybean, oat kernel oil, wheat germ oil and linseed, plus many more punchy actives that replicate your skin’s natural lipid barrier. Mixed with Herb & Mineral Mist, the blend of lipids and water are a guaranteed way to rehydrate and waterproof the skin. DMK Herbal Pigment Oil is another versatile oil that helps to brighten, smooth and strengthen the skin, whilst protecting against dehydration. It also smooths and exfoliates making it perfect for dark circles around the eyes, dark patches on the knees and elbows, raised scars, cuticles and dry, cracked lips; a common symptom of the cooler months.

Hands and feet often start to become dry and cracked during autumn, so don’t forget to invest in a good foot and hand cream like DMK Calerase. Designed to smooth and soften calloused, dry, and cracked skin, Calerase works exceptionally well in conjunction with DMK’s MediPedi® treatment. Calerase also has excellent exfoliating properties to help remove the build-up of dead skin cells leaving your skin smooth and bump-free.

MASQUES, CLEANSERS AND EXFOLIANTS

Speaking of exfoliants, together with masques and cleansers, they play an important part in the hydrating process. They work to remove dead cell material and toxins, allowing the nutrient-rich oils, serums and spritzes to work to rebuild the skin’s structures and functions. Our DMK Skin Technician recommends taking some time for yourself and investing in a good masking routine. DMK’s Hydrating Masque is an effective way to keep those skin cells plump during the transition to cooler months. It works with the skin’s water levels to calm redness, restore hydration, and revise wrinkles and fine lines for a bouncy, youthful complexion. Packed full of hyaluronic acid, it holds a thousand times its own weight in water. It also contains allantoin and vitamin B5 to help heal the skin and stimulate the growth of new tissue. DMK’s Hydrating Masque provides supreme hydration and is ideal for mature skin and skin prone to irritation and sensitivity.

SUNSCREEN

Even though the temperatures seem cooler and the days shorter, always remember to apply sunscreen before heading out. DMK’s signature sunscreen products protect the skin from damaging UVA and UVB rays that contribute to premature aging and pigmentation. DMK Sunscreen is formulated with a water-resistant base that is light, nongreasy and is perfect for acne-prone and oily skin as well as dry, dehydrated and mature skin. It can be used over all DMK products and it works effectively under make-up. It comes in both SPF15 and SPF50+ strengths.

PROTECT & MAINTAIN

Great year-round skincare starts with taking better care of ourselves. Apply DMK Home Prescriptives daily to help to protect your skin from the sun, free radicals, and other environmental factors. They will also help to maintain and prolong the results achieved with DMK professional treatments. Simple lifestyle choices will also enhance and support your skincare routine. Remember to drink more water to help flush out toxins and help keep your skin looking bright and clear. Also eat plenty of fruits, vegetables, whole grains, and healthy fats from sources like olives, avocados, and salmon to help boost your skin’s radiance and overall health. And don’t forget to get plenty of sleep which gives your skin the opportunity for cell turnover and renewal. Remember to treat your skin with care and tenderness all year long. Your skin is amazing and should be cared for like the precious organ it is. Be good to yourself and your skin will be just as good to you!